Updated: Feb 11
In this mini lesson we'll go over how to use darts as style enhancements. Although we may be more familiar with them being used just for fit, they can be very effective for creating interesting lines of design.
There are at least 9 types of darts
This diagram depicts the various places of darts can be applied. Each having its own name.
Center Front Neck
Center Front Bust
For the sake of this demonstration, we will create a center front waist dart, using the slash and spread technique.
1/2 Pattern blocks
Pattern paper or tracing paper
Ruler (clear grid ruler)
(Optional but helpful)
Muslin 1/2 a yard
Scissors (paper and fabric)
To start I will use a 1/2 scale "working pattern" ( a working pattern is what is used as a base to trace the base pattern pattern shape, it is not used to cut into but instead saved for future uses)
Design Analysis; Identifying where the dart is located. The waist dart is located to the center front waist.
Trace the charted pattern. Mark the center front waist dart.Label legs A & B.
Draw a slash line from center waist to bust point.
Slash pattern from center front to waist (make sure you do not cut into the waist point)
Close dart legs A & B. Tape
Place pattern on paper. Retrace.
Center dart point 5/8 inches from bust point (1/4 on the 1/2 scale dress form)
Draw dart legs to dart point
Add seams to pattern or muslin as shown
Complete pattern using general pattern information
Test fit (using muslin, cut on fold adding 1 inch extension at front)
Seam allowance for 1/2 scale dress form; in place of 1/2 = 1/4. in place of 1/4 neckline= 1/8
1/8 seam allowance in new dart.
There you have it! A gorgeous style dart using the slash and spread technique.
To learn how to expertly mark, trace and sew darts head LAIDIECLOTH U, and see my Pattern courses.
Pattern making Advanced- Creating the 4 basic block patterns for dressmaking
Patterns- Reading and assembling a dress from a store bought pattern.
To purchase your very own 1/2 scale pattern blocks head here.
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Enrollment is free, and there are a variety of courses to choose from.
To help you get started I'm offering a free resource guide, 19 Books to Kickstart your Fashion Business. Get the titles of books used by the pro's! There is also my Fashion Template Shop, to purchase traceable fashion figures & helpful documents for your dressmaking business.
Jasmine Terry-Ankobil owner and operator of LAIDIECLOTH fashion house, where I create custom designs and perform alterations for formal occasions. As well as my ready to wear shop. & Online Couture Sewing School LAIDIECLOTH U. Please feel free to share this article and/or visit my site www.laidiecloth.com